First-Aid for Your Horse
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Daniel J. Burba, DVM, Diplomate ACVS
Associate Professor, Equine Surgery
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First-aid for your horse is something that you probably don't think much about. If you own a horse long enough, chances are that at some time you will face an emergency or injury. Sometimes it's hard to tell if you are dealing with a life-threatening situation that requires immediate treatment.
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A lot of people worry about bleeding, but a horse has a tremendous volume of blood in their body. An adult horse has nearly 12 gallons of blood circulating through its body. It can lose over 3 gallons before showing signs of shock. This does not mean that first-aid should not be considered for a horse that is bleeding. On the contrary, as a responsible owner basic first-aid skills should be kept in mind.
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A key component to first-aid is having a FIRST-AID KIT for your horse, which most horse owners do not have. To make a first-aid kit, first a toolbox is needed. This will allow you to keep the necessary items in one place...wherever your horse is. It is important that not only to you keep your first-aid kit at the barn but to have it (or another one) in the trailer when you travel with your horse. The necessary items I consider important in a first-aid kit are
bandage scissors,
gauze pads,
cotton leg wraps (2),
ace wrap or vetwrap,
1" white medical tape (1 or 2 rolls),
hoof pick,
wound cleanser (betadine scrub),
bottle of saline solution,
bottle of hydrogen peroxide,
antibiotic wound ointment,
a couple of syringes,
eye wash,
eye ointment,
thermometer,
hemostats,
tweezers,
1 roll duck tape,
stethoscope (optional),
phone numbers = your local veterinarian & 1-800-GET-A DVM. This is a toll-free number developed by the AAEP (American Association of Equine Practitioners) that will assist you in finding a veterinarian in an area that you are not familiar with (such as at a horse show). This may seem a lot but most first-aid for horses involves wounds and eye problems.
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When should you call your veterinarian?
1) A cut with a lot of bleeding,
2) If your horse is lying down and won't get up,
3) If your horse is rolling on the ground a lot,
4) A very cloudy eye,
5) If your horse keeps an eye closed,
6) If your horse won't put weight on a leg,
7) If your horse is very lame,
8) If your horse won't walk,
9) If your horse has a fever >102oF,
10) If your horse is coughing excessively,
11) If your horse is choking, or
12) If your horse has difficulty breathing.
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There are several first-techniques to keep in mind. This bit of information presented here can serve as a reference that you may want to keep with your first-aid kit:
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FIRST-AID for BLEEDING due to punctures, lacerations, cuts. APPLY PRESSURE. This can be done by holding gauze pads over the area or better yet maintain the pressure with a leg wrap since most lacerations occur on the horse's limb.
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FIRST-AID for a BROKEN LEG.
DO NOT MOVE the horse unless absolutely necessary. Keep the horse (you) CALM. Sometimes it may be necessary to tranquilize the horse. Consult a veterinarian first before you do. IMMOBILIZE (SPLINT) the limb. Just like a person with a broken leg, a horse's leg needs to be immobilized. For this you will need a lot of padding material to wrap the leg. Also some form of rigid splinting material such as wooden slats (1x6) split PVC pipe (4" or 6"), or flat iron bar. Here are general rules to follow when splinting a horses limb: 1) Place at least 2 layers (or more) of padding when bandaging the limb. 2) Place splints over the leg wrap on two sides of the limb, one on front or back and on along side. 3) Use duck tape to secure the splints to the bandage. 4) Apply firm pressure when securing the splints to the limb.
If you are dealing with a fracture below the ankle, splint from top of the cannon bone to the ground.
If you are dealing with a fracture on the cannon bone, splint the entire limb.
If you are dealing with a fracture of the forearm region (radius), splint the entire limb and make the outside splint long enough to go up to the withers.
If you are dealing with a fracture of the gaskin region (tibia) of the hind leg, splint the entire limb and make the outside splint long enough to go up to the point of the hip.
NO SPLINT is necessary if you are dealing with a break in the shoulder, withers, or above the stifle.
Once the limb is securely splinted, TRANSPORTING to a hospital needs to be considered. A trailer with a ramp and partition(s) is best. A ramp allows the horse to be easily loaded and closing the horse in with partitions allows him/her to lean against a solid object. If you are dealing with a FRACTURE OF THE FORELIMB, the horse should be transported facing REARWARD. The horse should be positioned FORWARD if it has a HINDLIMB fracture. The horse's head should be secured (tied) once it is positioned in the trailer. It is important that the driver does not take turns hard and fast as well as stops. The motion of the trailer turning and stopping are the most difficult accommodations that the horse has to make.
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FIRST-AID for OVERHEATING.
This is a big problem here is the south due to the weather. The reasons most horses overheat are heat stress and not sweating (anhidrosis). The signs of overheating include flared nostrils, high body temperature, lack of energy (lethargy), and dehydration. A simple test to determine if your horse is dehydrated is to pinch up (tent) a fold of skin on the side of the neck. If the skin fold takes longer than 2 seconds to flatten, dehydration is present.
If a horse is overheating, COOL DOWN immediately with a water spray (hose). Go over the entire body, especially over the back, inside all legs, and underside of neck (jugular vein region). Allow the horse to drip dry; do not scrape excess water off skin. The evaporation of the water on the skin will help reduce the body temperature.
Move the horse into the SHADE.
If the horse's body temperature is over 105oF, place ICE PACKS on top of the head. As with people high body temperature can affect the brain. This will help reduce the temperature around the brain.
GIVE FREQUENT DRINKS OF WATER. DO NOT allow the horse to satisfy his/her thirst all at once. This could cause him/her to colic. Allow 3-4 swallows then take water away for a minute. Repeat this process until the horse has satisfied its thirst.
FIND A FAN(S). Fans will increase the rate of evaporation and cool the body temperature down faster.
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FIRST-AID for EYE INJURIES.
Early treatment of eye problems, especially in horses, is very important. Delay in treatment could result in more expense and possible loss of vision in the eye. Indications of an eye problem include constant squinting by the horse, red-looking irritated, and/or cloudy eye.
EXAMINE & FLUSH the eye. Flush the eye only with an eye wash. Plain water can be used if an eye wash is not available. To flush an eye of a horse, gently place the side of your palm directly in front of the eye and take the index finger and thumb and part the eyelids. Apply a gentle stream across the top of the eye, not in the middle.
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FIRST-AID for COLIC.
Signs of colic, include laying down, getting up and down frequently, frequent rolling, repeated pawing, looking back at the flanks, and curling the lip. Keep the horse quiet if possible. Let the horse lay as long as he/she does not try to roll. Trying to keep the horse up by walking the horse may result in fatigue of the horse. However, if the horse is pawing or wanting to roll, then get the horse up and walk. This may take its mind off of the pain. DO NOT GIVE the horse any thing to eat or drink. This could further complicate matters. The important thing is to keep the horse from traumatizing itself until a veterinarian arrives.
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When considering first-aid techniques, some of them are simple and easy to apply. What's important is to be prepared and have a plan. It is also important to have a veterinarian examine the horse no matter how minor an injury may look. Small injuries may spell trouble. HAVE A GOOD SHOW SEASON & STAY SAFE!
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